From rope stretching goodness to some gorgeous landscapes
When the fingers are sore and the laughs are plenty, it must be a rest day. Photo by Dalton Johnson
The Story
“Hey! You coming with us this weekend right?” I asked my best buddy on the phone. Our plan was to road trip to South Lake Tahoe for a long weekend of rock climbing. Even though I grew up in the Lake Tahoe area, my childhood was mostly spent swimming in a pool, chasing a dream of college sports. Since graduating, I left the pool behind and picked up rock climbing. Now, I am not very good, but gym climbing is quite boring to me, so getting outside for multi-pitch rock climbing itches my adventure needs.
“Yeah man! I am running a bit behind, work kept me late, but I’ll meet you all up there.”
Stoked to know we would have a small group, we made our way to Lake Tahoe in due time. At this moment in my life, I was living in a van (but not the van life dreams most would associate) and worked part time as a substitute teacher while building my career as a photographer and writer. My days were quite boring; wake up pre-sunrise to photograph surfing for an hour, go teach (aka edit what I shot that morning), shoot some more surfing until sunset, then go to a rock climbing gym. While boring, these days were laying the foundation for the work ethic needed as an adventure photographer.
Frothing to be outside, we made it to South Lake Tahoe in record time from the Bay Area. While it was night, we pulled out the South Lake Tahoe Rock Climbing Guidebook and started to plan the next few days. My focus was on Lover’s Leap and Phantom Spire. Both places looked like an adventure and the rock was gorgeous. Taking a pull, I asked the group who would be interested. Scott and Marie said yes. Most of the group enjoyed bouldering over roped climbing.
Rock climbing at Lover’s Leap on the Direct Start to Surrealistic Pillar (5.10b). Photo by Dalton Johnson
In the morning, we all went our separate ways. Scott and I left early to beat the heat and get a full day of multipitch rock climbing under our belts. We were both new to climbing, so speed was not something we had on our side. Hopeful to climb several pitches, we racked our gear in the lot, packed lunch in a backpack (that we would stash), and started down the trail for Surrealistic Pillar.
Our goal was to climb:
All in a single day. With our work cut out for us, we started up the first pitch of Surrealistic Pillar. Within that first pitch, we realized our goal was going to be ambitious. In the moment, I thought to myself, “Regardless of success, today’s going to be a fun day.” And I was correct. As the hours passed, so did the pitches. We didn’t complete our goal, but we wandered back into camp a bit haggard, laughing, and with stories to tell.
The good news and the bad news, we still had two more days of rock climbing in South Lake Tahoe. “What are we going to do?” I thought to myself. “Should we go finish up the last few routes, or should we do something new?” Unsure where I stood, I put the option out to Scott.
“I’m bouldering tomorrow.” He said quickly.
“I’d love to rope up tomorrow.” Marie’s voice chimed in after hearing Scott turn me down.
“Cool, where do you want to go?” I asked.
“Phantom Spires looks cool!”
The decision was made and we headed to Phantom Spires for another day of rock climbing in South Lake Tahoe. Excited to see a new spot, Marie and I poured over the guide book and ear-marked several single pitch traditional climbs.
Marie on her first outdoor traditional lead climb at Phantom Spires in South Lake Tahoe, CA. Photo by Dalton Johnson
The day at Phantom Spires was fun, exciting, and a relaxing counter to the day before. Marie got in her first lead climb and I got to play with the crag dogs, life was good! Worn out and ready to head back to camp, we hopped in the van and drove back to the group.
Upon returning, we all exchanged stories from our day. The bouldering group had a long day, looking for hidden boulders and getting lost along the way, they had an adventure. While their goal was to walk the least amount as possible, they ended up walking for hours. With a full belly and a camp fire burning, Marie and I shared the story from our day of rock climbing at Phantom Spires. The excitement was through the roof to hear that Marie had lead her first traditional route! We all cheered with s’mores.
With one day left, I bit the bullet and decided to go bouldering with the crew. To my surprise, I had a wonderful time! The location, Pie Shop, was pretty. Also, the boulders were hard! Maybe that is because I am quite bad at bouldering, but reaching the top of a v2 felt like an accomplishment.
Scott on a boulder in Pie Shop. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Rock Climbing Areas
Free Places to Camp (in a van or car)
BLM
National Forest
